Bam in Eastern Iran should have been a nice stopping point, walled mudbrick citadel, good guesthouse, friendly people, etc. But it wasn’t, we didn’t exactly hate it, but we got close, damned close. Being our last stopping off point in Iran we were looking forwards to chilling out before the big ride across the desert. […]

By New Years day 2003 we hadn’t ridden our bikes for 3 weeks. A wee side tripdown to Esfahan and Shiraz was one reason, the others were the PakistaniEmbassy not knowing elbow from #*rse and, of course, our old friend laziness.
So, feeling very fat and unhealthy we got up at 5am on New Years day, […]

Four hours until the new year (first stone cold sober one inabout 20 or so).
When Jenny’s cold showed all the signs of becoming a permanentfixture we thought it better to head off south to Esfahan by sleeper train. Theguys at the Asia Hotel were amazingly unflustered by us leaving 2 bikes andvast quantities of very […]